A wooden board with various holes and grooves to grip and hang from in order to improve finger strength. The board attaches to a wall or beam to practice motions of rock climbing.
Inspiration
As a climber, I like to work on my finger-strength. Many climbing gyms have a piece of equipment called a hang-board for this purpose. Hang-boards have different holes that vary in depth and grip which are meant to help the climber improve their endurance on everything from small, "crimpy" holds, to large, smooth "slopers." Since some climbers like to have the convenience of hang-board training at home, they purchase and install their own. They can be wooden or plastic, and can be easily mounted over a doorway. I do not like the clunky, unappealing look of the average hang-board. That is why I decided to model one that is fun, aesthetically pleasing, and functional. 
3d Modeling and rendering
To create the design, I used the measurements of a normal hang-board and applied it to the larger mass of the mustache. On Rhino 6, I used different sweep commands, various cage edits, and some boolean splits to form the curved-domes and the rectangle blocks for crimps and ledges. 
Using Autodesk Fusion 360 I created a realistic rendering of what the Hang-board Mustache would look like once it's made. With the room built out on Rhino 6 and textures added on Autodesk, I achieved an aesthetic with which I wanted to proceed.
Fabrication
To physically make the mustache, I used a CNC machine to carve the pieces of wood. My instructor, Camilla Friedman, helped me mill.
I sliced the 3D model into three layers. The bottom-most layer was out of 3/4 inch wood and the two middle layers were 1.5 inches thick. The whole process took about 3-4 hours for 6 individual pieces of wood. 
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Assembly
Once the six pieces were cut, it was time to glue them together, sand the two halves, and stain. Overall, gluing took a total of two days and 8-10 clamps to hold the curved pieces together. Despite some glue drying within some of the grips, it all went smoothly. I applied some wood joint to fill in any extra gaps and proceeded to sand it. Once sanded, the halves were stained in Ebony and the backboard to which they're attached was stained in Gunstock.
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